Mountain Instructor Scheme. Prospectus & Syllabus

PROSPECTUS

1 INTRODUCTION

The Mountain Instructor Scheme provides comprehensive training and assessment for individuals working as instructors in the mountains. It is designed for the specific situations and conditions found in the UK. It integrates training, experience and assessment in a variety of testing conditions in mountainous country.

The scheme provides training and assessment in the skills required to teach, train and assess general mountaineering, rock and ice climbing and related activities. There are two separate awards:

- The Mountain Instructor Award (Summer), known as the MIA, is for instructors working in summer conditions and covers multi-pitch rock climbing, scrambling and other mountaineering skills.

- The Mountain Instructor Certificate, known as the MIC, covers the additional skills required for winter mountaineering and winter climbing. It also includes elements of training and assessment which the UKMTB feels are necessary for those advising and directing other courses of training or related activities.

2 STAGES IN THE SCHEME

The scheme consists of nine stages. The first five stages allow a candidate to complete the Mountain Instructor Award and a further four stages lead to the awarding of a Mountain Instructor Certificate:

i register

ii attend an MIA Training Course

iii gain further experience during a consolidation period

iv attend an MIA Assessment Course

v awarded MIA and continue to log experience

vi have appropriate experience and hold a Winter ML award

vii attend MIC Training Course

viii attend an MIC Assessment Course

ix be awarded a Mountain Instructor Certificate

3 REGISTRATION

All potential candidates must first register for the Mountain Instructor Scheme and satisfy the following conditions. You must

i be at least 20 years of age

ii have completed a Mountain Leader Award (Summer)

iii have completed 20 quality mountain days (See Appendix I) as a leader in sole charge of a mixed ability group. These should not be repeat days and should be

obtained in a period following completion of the ML.

iv have substantial climbing experience and be able to list a minimum of 30 named multi-pitch rock climbs of VS4c standard or above which you have led in at least 3 main climbing areas of the UK. These routes should represent the breadth of your climbing experience. A large proportion of these routes should be on mountain crags and major sea cliffs.

v Identify a suitable referee to endorse the registration application, preferably a Mountain Instructor, Guide or ML Centre staff member, but other long term climbing partner or suitable employer will be considered.

4 MIA TRAINING

On completion of registration, and once in possession of a Mountain Instructor Logbook, candidates may apply to attend a mandatory training course of 9 days duration. Courses are only held at approved centres. The training course includes aspects not assessed on the final course, so there is no exemption from training. A few minor aspects of the syllabus may not be covered during the training course and candidates are expected to deal with these themselves.

During the training course advice will be given individually about further experience so candidates must present a completed logbook at the start of the course in order to assist this process.

Candidates will benefit greatly from reading and understanding the Mountain Instructor Scheme Guidance Notes supplied as part of the registration package.

5 CONSOLIDATION PERIOD

On completion of the MIA Training Course candidates will need to consolidate their experience and evaluate the techniques shown during training. The consolidation period will be a minimum of twelve months and the minimum requirements during this period are:

i have completed a further 20 quality mountain days (see Appendix I) as a leader in sole charge of a mixed ability group

ii have completed 20 rock climbing teaching days with students

iii have completed a further 20 multi-pitch climbs at VS4c or above in three major climbing areas of the UK, a large proportion of which should be on mountain crags and major sea cliffs. (During several days of the assessment candidates may be climbing at this grade, so experience of leading harder routes is extremely valuable).

iv hold a valid approved first aid certificate (see 6 and Appendix III)

v have obtained a reference from a referee (see Personal Profile in logbook).

vi have gained a broad working knowledge of all aspects of the mountains and mountaineering, including the mountain environment and British mountaineering history, ethics and traditions.

Experience gained overseas, while valuable, is not a substitute for the specific experience gained in the UK. Exemption from the consolidation period is possible for very experienced candidates who can demonstrate considerable experience prior to the training course. It must be stressed that the consolidation period is an essential part of the preparation for assessment, enabling candidates to evaluate personally all the techniques demonstrated at training. Under no circumstances will candidates be allowed to progress from training to assessment in less than three months. An exemption application form is available from the Board.

6 FIRST AID REQUIREMENTS

Candidates for MIA and MIC must hold a valid first aid qualification as required for the Mountain Leader Award (Summer) (see Appendix III). In addition, candidates must undertake such additional elements of first aid training as are consistent with their operation in wild and remote country, including emergency assistance and evacuation techniques. It is the responsibility of the award holders to evaluate their likely work and the type of situations they can reasonably expect to encounter and to gain appropriate first aid training and qualifications to enable them to deal with these situations.

7 MIA ASSESSMENT

Candidates must be familiar with all aspects of the syllabus before assessment. The assessment course lasts a minimum of five days. At the end of the course the Director of Assessment will endorse the logbook in one of three ways:

PASS: awarded where the candidate has demonstrated a proper knowledge and application of the course syllabus and has shown the necessary experience for and application of mountain instruction.

DEFERRED: awarded where the candidate has generally performed at the required standard and shown the necessary experience and attributes, but where complete proficiency has not been attained. Written recommendations for further experience will be given, along with details of the proposed reassessment.

FAIL: awarded where the candidate's performance has been generally weak, or the necessary experience and attributes have not been shown.

A panel of at least three assessors (including the Director of Assessment) will be involved in deciding each candidate's result.

8 RE-ASSESSMENT

Re-assessments cannot be more than two days in length, and must follow a minimum period of three months after the original assessment. A candidate may only take two re-assessments before being required to take the entire assessment course again. Since the re-assessment will be based on information gained during the original assessment, all re-assessments must be completed within a five year period.

9 PRE-REQUIREMENTS FOR MIC

The winter element of the Mountain Instructor Scheme is considered the minimum standard for those instructing the skills of snow and ice climbing.

Pre-requirements for Training. Candidates must:

i have completed the Mountain Instructor Award (Summer)

ii have completed the Winter Mountain Leader Award

iii have 20 days logged experience of winter party management (this can be both pre and post winter ML, but at least 10 days must be post)

iv have logged at least 20 routes at Grade II or above in a minimum of three main mountain areas of the UK, of which 10 should be Grade III.

Pre-requirements for Assessment. Candidates must:

i have attended an MIC training course

ii have 10 days logged experience of winter party management, post MIC training

iii have logged 5 days climbing experience at Grade II or above post MIC training (in addition to iv above)

iv hold a valid first aid award (see Appendix III and MIA First Aid, Section 6)

v be currently leading winter climbs at Grade III standard or above

10 MIC TRAINING

All candidates must attend a mandatory 5 day training course at an approved centre. Before attending a training course candidates must be sure that they meet all of the Boards pre-requirements for training. The training course includes aspects not assessed on the final course, so there is no exemption from training. A few minor aspects of the syllabus may not be covered during the training course and candidates are expected to deal with these themselves.

During the course advice will be given individually about further experience so candidates must present a completed logbook at the start of the course in order to assist this process.

11 MIC ASSESSMENT

When applying for assessment, candidates must send the logbook and first aid certificate to the Director of Assessment to confirm that sufficient experience has been gained. Candidates should be familiar with all aspects of the syllabus.

MIC assessment courses are run over four days at approved centres. The course assesses winter climbing skills, both personal and instructional, and offers additional training in all aspects of winter mountaineering.

At the end of the course the Director of Assessment endorses the logbook with an assessment report which has one of the following recommendations:

PASS: awarded where the candidate has demonstrated a proper knowledge and application of the course syllabus and has shown the necessary experience for and application of mountaineering instruction. The Board will then issue a Mountain Instructor Certificate.

DEFERRED: awarded where the candidate has generally performed at the required standard and shown the necessary experience and attributes, but where complete proficiency has not been attained. Written recommendations for further experience will be given, along with details of the proposed re-assessment. (See Section 12).

FAIL: awarded where the candidate's performance has been generally weak, or the necessary experience and attributes have not been shown.

A panel of at least three assessors (including the Director of Assessment) will be involved in deciding each candidate's result.

12 RE-ASSESSMENT

Re-assessments cannot be more than two days in length and it is recommended that 3 months elapse from the date of the original assessment. A candidate may only take two reassessments before being required to take the entire assessment again. All reassessments must be completed within five years of the first assessment.

13 APPEALS PROCEDURE FOR MIA AND MIC

If you feel that you have not been fairly dealt with at assessment you should:

i Make contact with the Director of Assessment and explain your concerns.

ii If you are still unhappy about your assessment you should write to the Secretary of the UKMTB explaining fully your concerns.

iii If the Secretary feels your concerns are justified the matter will be referred to the UKMTB for adjudication. The decision of the Board will be final.

1 PERSONAL MOUNTAINEERING

i competent, safe and assured leading of multi-pitch rock climbs of VS4c standard

ii care and leadership of a party on scrambling and rocky terrain including the use of short rope technique

iii safe control of a party in descent/retreat from a rock climb or steep broken ground

iv knowledge and use of a wide range of mountaineering/rock climbing equipment

v suitable choice of route, given ability of party, weather and conditions

vi navigate with speed and efficiency in all conditions

2 MOUNTAINEERING INSTRUCTION

i structure/organise and perform instruction and leadership in a variety of mountain-related activities for participants who range from novice to committed hillwalker and rock climber

ii present a lecturette to one's peers on a mountain-related topic, promoting and inspiring discussion

iii present a mountain lecture to a large audience of mixed background and experience, the intention being to educate, enthuse and entertain

iv instruct all aspects of navigation

v structure, plan and run a variety of indoor technical sessions for both novice and experienced climbers

3 ROCK CLIMBING INSTRUCTION

i prepare and organise a day's rock climbing instruction for a large group on a single pitch crag, including bouldering, climbing, top-roping, abseiling and lowering

ii assess ability of group in order to give a safe, enjoyable and educational day

iii instruct and coach committed rock climbers on multi-pitch climbs, including the teaching of all rock climbing skills from advanced ropework to leading, including the use of climbing walls

4 MOUNTAIN RESCUE

i knowledge and use of mountain rescue equipment for general and crag rescue situations

ii assessment of accident scene, and implementation of appropriate action

iii handling of casualty and safe movement/security of rescue team

iv knowledge of a variety of stretcher lowers

5 IMPROVISED RESCUE

i ability to perform a variety of improvised rescue techniques using normal climbing equipment - to include abseiling, lowering, hoisting, escaping from the system and prussiking

ii ability to assess a crag problem and to determine the most efficient and effective solution

6 NATIONAL AWARDS AND LOCAL ACCREDITATION SCHEMES

i demonstrate an ability to instruct and supervise the elements of the Summer Mountainwalking Leader Award Scheme, the Single Pitch Supervisors Award Scheme and local accreditation schemes at both training and assessment levels

ii awareness of the standards required for assessment of the above awards and knowledge of suitable methods/means of that assessment

iii knowledge of the philosophy, structure and organisation of the above awards

iv awareness of the nature and form of mountain training and its potential future development

7 THE MOUNTAIN ENVIRONMENT

i knowledge of the natural aspects of mountains such as geology, natural history, flora and fauna

ii knowledge of the multiple use of mountain areas and the necessity for the conservation and protection of land against human pressures

iii awareness of problems relating to access to wild country and our impact upon it

iv ability to enthuse and educate others in the above topics

8 DEVELOPMENT AND HISTORY OF MOUNTAINEERING

i knowledge of mountaineering and rock climbing history

ii knowledge of a wide range of mountain literature including instructional, guidebooks and biographical elements

iii knowledge of the structure of clubs and mountaineering organisations

9 ASSESSMENT OF RISK AND ITS RELEVANT APPLICATION

i awareness of the responsibilities of the Mountain Instructor to employer, child, parent, headmaster, Training Board and others

ii evaluation of the needs and requirements of individual/party to obtain a suitable level of adventure, risk and safety

iii familiarity with the UKMTB's National Guidelines and the implications of the Activities Centres (Young Persons' Safety) Act 1995

iv an understanding of the Mountain Instructor's role when acting as a Technical Expert

10 PERSONAL WINTER MOUNTAINEERING

i demonstrate competence of safe and assured leadership on multi-pitch snow and ice climbs up to Grade III standard

ii supervision and control of a party in descent or retreat from a snow and ice climb or steep and broken ground

iii demonstrate the technical skills required to safeguard a party on difficult terrain, including the use of short rope techniques as appropriate

iv understanding of the limitations in winter of campcraft and use of alternative methods, planned and emergency

v demonstrate an ability to select a suitable route or climb, given the ability and aspirations of the party and the likely weather and conditions

11 WINTER MOUNTAINEERING INSTRUCTION

i be able to structure teaching sessions and give demonstrations of appropriate techniques in all aspects of the basic winter mountaineering skills

ii ability to demonstrate and instruct the use of standard equipment such as ice axe, crampons and basic belay techniques

iii ability to instruct the essential skills of winter navigation

iv provide an enjoyable, safe and instructive experience to novice climbers on snow and ice climbs up to Grade II standard

v demonstrate an understanding of snow and avalanche conditions

vi show a clear understanding of the requirements of the Winter ML scheme and demonstrate the ability to instruct and assess to the required standards of the scheme

Appendix I - EXPERIENCE

Candidates often experience some difficulty when compiling their logbooks and registration forms in trying to determine whether or not they meet the experience requirements of the various training schemes.

The Mountain Instructor scheme is UK orientated, and so all of the experience recorded should reflect this. Whilst experience gained trekking or climbing in, for example, the High Atlas mountains is undoubtedly valuable, it is not necessarily the most appropriate experience for the Mountain Instructor scheme. The Board is looking for both depth and breadth of experience since candidates who have only the minimum experience are unlikely to benefit from either the training or assessment course.

Appendix II - QUALITY MOUNTAIN DAYS

As a general guide, candidates for the Mountain Instructor scheme should have completed the requisite number of mountain days and these should be substantive days out. Whilst a traverse of the Pennine Way, for example, may provide some appropriate experience it is unlikely that a candidate who has only led groups in the low fells and on way-marked paths would meet the rigorous demands of the courses. At the same time however, it is not necessarily true to say that experience can only be gained on the highest peaks. In general, quality mountain days should contain elements of planning, exploration and navigation; they should be strenuous and reasonably demanding; ideally they will be on unfamiliar terrain which will necessitate the use of map and compass; and perhaps most importantly, the end result will give a sense of achievement, satisfaction and enjoyment.

Under winter conditions, the intensive nature of the experience, the demands it makes on fitness and the need to navigate accurately and safely over the chosen route in adverse weather conditions present a challenge that requires the instructor to have knowledge and experience above that normally required in summer.

Examples of quality days may be found in many books on mountain walking. A short bibliography would include SMC District Guides, The Scottish Peaks (Poucher), The Big Walks, Classic Walks, Wild Walks (Wilson & Gilbert), The Ridges of Snowdonia (Ashton), 100 Best Routes on Scottish Mountains (Storer)

Appendix III FIRST AID QUALIFICATIONS

The home nation mountain training boards define the first aid requirement for the Mountain Leader Award (Summer) as follows:

Candidates must hold a currently valid Public Certificate in First Aid issued by one of the following organisations: British Red Cross Society, St Johns Ambulance Association, St Andrews Ambulance Association or a full First Aid at Work Certificate approved by the Health & Safety Executive.

Any alternative certificate or qualification which is held may be offered as a substitute, provided the approval of the Board Secretary is obtained.

Appendix IV - DEFINITION OF SUMMER AND WINTER

Winter: Winter means when winter conditions, including snow and ice, prevail or are forecast. This cannot be defined by a portion of the year.

Summer: Any conditions not covered under winter.

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